Method of making sweat-bands for hats or caps



(No Model.)

110.856, 116. Patented Jan. 18,1887.

W/T/VESSES ATTOH/VEf AARON MOREHOUSE, OF DANBURY, CONN ASSIGNOR TO THE HAT SWVEAT MANUFACTURING,COMPANY, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

METHOD OF MAKING SWEAT-BANDS FOR HATS OR CAPS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 356,416, dated January 18, 1887.

Application filed June 4, 1885. Renewed August 13, 1856. Serial No. 210,848. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, AARON Monnnousn, a

citizen of the United States, residing at Danbury, in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented an Improved Method of Making Sweat-Bands for Hats or Gaps, of which the following is a full and complete specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part thereof. v

This invention relates especially to that class of sweats havinga covered reed. A hatsweat of this character is shown in Letters Patent No. 229,949, granted to Thomas W. Bracher, July 13, 1880; and it consists of an improved method of securing the parts which compose the sweat, as hereinafter described, and particularly pointed out in the claim.

The external appearance of the sweat when completed is almost the same as the Bracher sweat above referred to; but the resemblance is a superficial one only, for the peculiar feature of my sweat is, that the parts are secured together by an elastic stitch, which possesses many points of advantage over the stitches previously used for this purpose. The seam that I use is produced by a double-needle machine using but two threads, and consists of interlooped single stitches only.

Hat-sweats sewed together with a lockstitch are open to the objection that they require to be passed more than once through the flangingmachine, the want of elasticity making it difficult, or even impossible, to properly flange the sweats at one operation.

The seam or stitch that I make use of to secure the various parts of my sweat together consists of two parallel rows of stitches, one row being a succession of interlooped single stitches, forming what is known as a chainstitch, and the other row being a series of simple loops passing through the fabric to be sewed, and each of these loops interlooped with the next stitch in advance in the parallel row of chain-stitches. The result is a very elastic stitch, showing upon one side two parallel rows of equal ordinary stitches having no peculiarity in appearance, but upon the other side appearing, when produced under loose 5o tension, as a chain-stitch having interlooped with it a series of short stitches parallel to each other, but set at an angle to the line of the chain-stitch. WVhen the stitch is properly formed with a firm tension, the loops are closely drawn together, and the diagonalor whip stitches then appear (except upon close examination) as a single thread. In using this scam or stitch upon hat-sweats the chain lies just at the edge of the leather and partly conceals the said edge. The needle which forms this row of stitches penetrates the reed-cover only, and not the leather. This chain, as it shows upon the finished sweat, looks like a single silk thread or small cord, giving a neat finish to the article. 6

This invention is illustrated in the accompanying sheet of drawings, in which Figure 1 represents a face view of the sweat complete. Fig. 2 is a view of the wrong or under side of the sweat. Fig. 3 is a crosssection of the hat-sweat, showing the superposition of the parts of which it is composed.

The letter A designates the reed; B, the reed-cover folded over the reed in the usual manner; 0, the leather. 6 indicates the appearance, on the wrong side, of the line of stitches which appear upon the face of the sweat as the chain indicated by h.

f shows the wrong-side appearance of the stitches, the loops of which, when drawn through the leather and interlooped with the chain It, show upon the right side as a whipstitch, (indicated by g g.)

The stitches are shown on an exaggerated scale in the drawings, and the loops are shown as loops, whereas when used upon the sweatleather the threads of the loops lie so close togetherthat they are indistinguishable from one thread.

The chainstiteh, which does not penetrate 0 the leather, but only the reed-cover, lies so closely to or under the edge of the leather that its looped appearance is also lost, and it appears as a heavy but single thread of silk.

The advantage of a whip-stitch upon hat- 5 sweats is, that by passing over the edge of the leather it holds it down to the reed-cover and gives a very ornamental finish to the work, resembling hand-work very closely.

The peculiar merits of a hat-sweat secured [0O by the peculiar kind of a whip-stitch above described are, that it is a much more elastic stitch than a somewhat similar stitch produced by a shuttle, and consequently allows of flanging with much less risk of breaking, and with but one pass through the flanging-machine; that it requires but two threads instead of three; that it is stronger, and that it conceals the edge of the leather better, and thus makes a neater finish. This stitch is produced by a machine of peculiar construction having a looping-hook beneath and two eye-pointed needles of unequal length; but I do not further describe this machine here, as it forms the subj ect of an application for Letters Patent filed June 18, 1886, and serially'numbered 205.538.

I am aware that Letters Patent have been granted to Thomas V. Bracher for an improved hatsweat, dated July 13, 1880, and numbered 229,949, and I do not claim anything set forth in said Letters Patent.

Having now fully described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

An improved method of making sweatbands for hats or caps, consisting substantially of the following steps: The reed is first covered with a strip of c1oth-such as is usually employed for that purpose-and placed upon the wrong side of the leather, leaving the covered reed projecting over the edge of the leather; the said parts are then secured together by a double row of elastic or chain machine stitches, the needle forming one row of loops penetrating the reed-cover only close to the edge of the leather, the needle forming the second row of loops penetrating both leather and reed-cover near the edge of the leather, the row of loops which penetrate both leather and reed-cover being drawn out in a diagonal direction and interlooped with the loops produced by the first-mentioned needle, which loops are also interlooped with each other to form a chain, the said interlooping being effected by any suitable mechanism, and the whole stitch being 5 produced by but two threads, both of the said threads being needle-threads, all substantially as described, and for the purpose set forth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand.

AARON MOREHOUSE.

Witnesses:

G. W. HAMILTON, DAVID B. BOOTH. 

